[Day 02] What to look out for when training with a dog
[WEEK 01] Day 02
This video and training is part of the Grunge Obedience Concept, a structured programme to promote obedience and the bond between humans and dogs. The concept is carefully didactic and methodical to ensure that each exercise builds on the previous one for maximum effectiveness. It is crucial that you carry out the training in the intended order to achieve the best possible results for your dog.
Today we're talking about the right organisation and training routine - don't worry, that sounds drier than it is! In fact, it's the key to the success of your training. Just think of a project that you tackle without a plan: chaos is inevitable, isn't it? That's exactly what we want to prevent in dog training! A well thought-out process and the knowledge of how to train effectively not only ensure more success, but also a lot more fun - for you and your dog.
Goal: You understand that success in dog education and dog training depends heavily on your knowledge.
Equipment: Basic equipment for everyday dog life
Ort: everywhere
Duration: daily
Realistic expectations
Dogs are incredibly adaptable and learn quickly - but only what we actually teach them. Our expectations are often far too high: we think that our dog will be able to do everything perfectly after a few training sessions. But as with us humans, practice makes perfect for dogs. It would be unrealistic to expect a dog to be a "model pupil" after just eight weeks. Eight weeks is a great start to give your dog a solid foundation, but the work doesn't end there.
The key thing to remember is that your dog can only do what you have consistently taught him. A "sit" in the living room does not automatically mean that it will also work outside in the park. Why is that? For your dog, these are completely different situations with different stimuli. Just as you wouldn't expect to master a new skill perfectly in every situation, your dog will need time and practice to transfer what it has learnt to other environments.
As dog owners, we often have somewhat unrealistic expectations of our dogs and take the associated frustration out on our dogs' backs. You should only expect your dog to do what you have explicitly practised with him. For example, if you practise a "sit" at home, you should not expect your dog to perform the "sit" correctly in a park, as this creates a completely new stimulus for your dog. Training correctly also means practising what you expect your dog to do later on.
Only expect your dog to do what you have explicitly practised with him.
Clarity: audible & visual signals
Dogs are true communication artists. They are constantly reading our gestures, facial expressions and body language - often even better than we are! This means that your dog not only pays attention to what you say, but also how you say it and how you move. Imagine you are frustrated because your dog doesn't come immediately and you call him in a seemingly neutral tone. Your dog can still tell that you are annoyed - by your posture, your facial expression or a subtle tension in your voice. This may be exactly why he hesitates and doesn't react immediately to your command.
In addition to the ambivalence of what is said and what is felt, the unambiguity of the words and visual signals is very important. Think about which signalling words and visual cues you want to use for your dog right from the start and only use these. A classic example of what often goes wrong is "out", i.e. giving out objects. When giving out objects, dog owners unconsciously use totally unclear auditory and visual signals. The dog hears everything from "off" to "no" or "fie" and at the same time the dog owner tugs at the object that the dog is supposed to give out. What does the dog understand? "Cool, my human is playing with me". This is just one of the many examples that happen to us unconsciously and make clear training almost impossible. It is important to understand that clarity is the be-all and end-all of communication for dogs. They need clear and consistent signals to understand what is expected of them. For example, if you want to teach your dog to hand over an object, you should think about a specific auditory and visual signal that you will use every time from the outset.
It is particularly effective if you integrate visual cues into your training. Dogs often react more quickly to visual stimuli than to spoken words. Just think of the many dogs that know to sit or lie down simply by moving their hand - without any command. This is because dogs naturally pay attention to visual signals. In the wild or in packs, animals often communicate non-verbally. For your dog, a clearly recognisable hand signal can therefore be much clearer than words.
A practical example: If you want to teach your dog to sit, you could make a downward movement with your hand each time you say the command "sit". After a while, your dog will internalise the gesture so well that he will sit with the hand movement alone, without you even having to say the word "sit". This not only saves time and words, but is also a clear and direct form of communication for your dog.
Remember that dogs learn through consistency. Always use the same auditory and visual cues so that your dog knows exactly what you want him to do. This not only creates clarity, but also strengthens your bond because your dog feels more secure when he understands what you want.
Objective: SMART training
Did you know that clear goals make your training more effective? You can define your training goals according to the SMART principle (Specific, Measurable, Attractive, Realistic, Time-bound).
For example: "Today I want my dog to respond reliably to the 'sit' signal in three different environments." This gives you clarity and your dog the chance to learn exactly what you want. According to a study by the Dominican University of California, people who write down their goals are more successful in achieving them. So feel free to write down small milestones - it will help you and your dog!
S - Specific
Your goal should be defined as precisely as possible. Instead of saying "I want my dog to listen better", you should name a specific behaviour. For example: "I want my dog to respond to the 'sit' signal." The more precise the goal, the clearer it will be what you want to work on with your dog.
M - Measurable
Your goal should be measurable so that you can recognise progress. One measurable component could be the number of successful repetitions your dog performs in a certain situation. Example: "My dog should respond to the 'sit' signal 8 out of 10 times." This way, you can concretely observe whether you are on the right track.
A - Attractive
Your goal should not only be attractive and motivating for you, but also for your dog. If the goal is too boring or too easy, it won't be particularly rewarding for you or your dog. An attractive goal could be: "I want my dog to sit, whether in the living room or in a busy meadow." Challenges like this make training more exciting.
R - Realistic
A goal should be realistic and achievable, based on your dog's abilities and your own training efforts. It would be unrealistic to expect your dog to hear perfectly after a few days, especially in challenging environments. A realistic goal could therefore be: "In two weeks, my dog should respond reliably to 'sit' in a low-stimulus environment."
T - Terminated
Every goal needs a time limit. If you don't set yourself a deadline, it will be difficult to track your progress and keep your motivation high. Your goal should therefore also have a fixed time frame. For example: "In the next two weeks, I want my dog to master the 'sit' signal in different environments."
Low to high stimulus exercise
All training always starts in a low-stimulus environment - this usually means at home or in a quiet training area where your dog has few distractions. There you can ensure that your dog is fully focussed on you and understands the basics of a new exercise. As soon as an exercise works well in this environment, you can slowly increase the difficulty.
Stimuli in particular distract unfocussed dogs very quickly and make it particularly difficult for dogs to carry out an exercise.
The next step would be to move the training to a slightly more stimulating place, such as your garden or a separate training area. There are already a few more distractions here, be it from other people, noises or odours, but still not so many that your dog is completely overwhelmed. If your dog reliably implements what it has learnt here too, you can gradually integrate the training into everyday life.
Now the real everyday environments come into play - a walk in the park, meeting other dogs or even busy streets with lots of people. Here it will be more difficult for your dog to carry out the signals as reliably as at home. Why is this? Dogs are very situational learners. This means that they may master a signal like "sit" perfectly in your living room, but if they are suddenly surrounded by new impressions such as other dogs, people or exciting smells, they cannot always transfer what they have learnt to the new situation straight away. Stimulus overload makes it difficult for them to concentrate on your commands.
Generalise: From the sofa to everyday life
Dogs find it incredibly difficult to transfer a training situation to everyday life. When you train your dog at home, he may perform all the commands perfectly - "sit", "down", "stay". He knows exactly what you want him to do and does it with flying colours. But as soon as you're out in the park, he seems to have completely forgotten what he's learnt. Why is that? The reason lies in generalisation.
Dogs' brains work differently to ours. While we as humans are able to apply learned concepts flexibly, dogs are more dependent on practising in exactly the same environment and under the same conditions in which they will later perform the behaviour. A dog can only understand a behaviour as "common knowledge" once it has practised and experienced it in many different contexts. This is why it is so important for dogs to extend their training to different situations.
the posture and movements of the person
Distances and positions during training
Different places in everyday life
Introduce different sounds and odours (e.g. training on a farm vs. training in the city)
Consequence
There is a well-known saying: "No master has ever fallen from the sky." This not only applies to us humans, but also to our dogs. Nevertheless, as dog people, we often tend to expect superhuman performances from our dogs. We think that after just a few training sessions they have to perform every command perfectly straight away. But just like ourselves, our dogs need time and, above all, consistency to really understand what we want from them. Even though they are incredibly clever and adaptable, their brains need regularity without exception in order to develop a routine, a habit or a new behavioural system.
Consistency is an often underestimated but crucial element in dog training. It is the key to success because it is only through constant repetition and clear rules that a behaviour becomes a habit. There is a rule of thumb that is also often used in psychology: It takes 21 days for a new habit to become ingrained in the brain - in both humans and dogs.
EAn example from our everyday life: we personally get our dogs to "heel" at every crossing and every oncoming walker, and have been doing so for several years. If we forget to enforce this rule once or twice, it is a new situation for the dog and the next time he will have difficulty coming to heel again. In other words, the lack of continuity makes conditions more difficult for the dog.
Consistency therefore means sticking to it without exception - always and everywhere. It is important for us to mention that consistency has nothing to do with pain or suppression, but with persistence and constant repetition!
You'll find the perfect equipment for your dog with us
Patience: your best friend in training
There are good days and bad days - for us and our dogs. This means that one day your dog sits perfectly and the next day he seems to have forgotten everything. Don't panic! Such regressions are completely normal.
Stay patient and remember: it's okay to take breaks. Sometimes it's enough to stop training for the day and continue on another day. Pressure and frustration won't help you or your dog. The more relaxed you are, the more successful the training will be in the long term.
Breaks: overload versus underload
As with children, dogs also have a limited concentration span. A young brain can often only concentrate for 5-10 minutes. It is therefore better to train short units with breaks than long sessions that overtax your dog.
Your dog will let you know when he is tired or overwhelmed. However, it is just as important as taking breaks to avoid underchallenging your dog. A dog needs mental and physical exercise - about two hours of active activity a day. Rest and exercise must be in a healthy balance to avoid stress and boredom.
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Reward: The power of positive reinforcement
When it comes to the topic of reward and punishment in dog training, we come up against a central question: What really motivates your dog? How can we train him to perform the desired behaviour without the training becoming a source of frustration? The answer lies in reinforcement - both positive and negative - and the correct use of corrections
Reward and punishment in dog training
Let's start with rewards, probably the most important pillar in training your dog. It's not just about food or treats - although these are often the most effective and direct motivators. There are different types of rewards that can be appealing to your dog, and it's important that you choose the right reward for the situation.
Positive reinforcement means that you give your dog something pleasant as soon as he shows a desired behaviour. This method is based on the fact that dogs learn through repetition and reward. Every time your dog performs a certain behaviour - for example "sit" - it receives a reward. As a result, he understands that this behaviour is worthwhile and will perform it more often in the future.
Studies show that dogs respond particularly well to social interaction as a reward. This means that petting, a smile or verbal praise can often be just as effective as a treat. If your dog responds strongly to food, you can use food rewards to teach him new behaviours. However, make sure the treats are small and tasty so they don't interrupt the learning process. Treats that are too big or difficult to chew could distract your dog from the exercise.
In addition to food, games can also be a fantastic reward. Especially for very active dogs who like to fetch or tug, a short moment of play after a successful exercise can be a real motivational boost. However, it is important that you adapt the type of reward to the training in question. While a game can work well after an active exercise, it could be counterproductive during rest training.
One of the most effective types of reward is the so-called need-orientated reward. This means that you reward your dog with what gives him the most pleasure at that moment - be it a treat, a game or your full attention. For some dogs, even a kind word or a loving touch is enough to make them feel rewarded. It is important that you know your dog well and understand his preferences. What he perceives as a reward in one situation may change in another.
Punishment and correction: negative reinforcement & positive punishment
In dog training, the balance between reward and punishment is often discussed. However, effective training consists not only of praise and treats, but sometimes also of corrections that serve to interrupt unwanted behaviour. There are two important concepts here: Negative Reinforcement and Positive Punishment.
Negative reinforcement
Negative reinforcement means that an unpleasant stimulus is removed as soon as the dog shows the desired behaviour. The term "negative" does not refer to something bad, but to the removal of a stimulus. A classic example would be applying light pressure to the dog's croup to get it to sit. As soon as the dog sits, the pressure is removed. The dog learns that it can avoid or stop the unpleasant stimulus through the correct behaviour (sitting).
Positive punishment
Positive punishment, on the other hand, means that an unpleasant stimulus is added to reduce undesirable behaviour. The term "positive" here refers to the addition of a stimulus. An example would be if the dog is verbally corrected with a stern "No!" when jumping on the table. The unwanted stimulus (the stern "No") is added to interrupt the unwanted behaviour (jumping on the table).
Self-rewarding behaviour is a common problem in training. The first priority in any training programme is to avoid mistakes. It is the human's job to design the environment for the dog in such a way that our dog cannot show any opportunities for misbehaviour. The magic word is "limitation". For example, if you are training with a dog that cannot concentrate well, it can simply run away from the training situation and discover a fun game for itself. Running away was then self-rewarding, because practising is boring and running away is cool. Happiness hormones reinforce running away so strongly that your dog finds the treat in your hand less attractive. Giving a piece of food in exchange for an emotional high is not very attractive to your dog and therefore running away will accumulate in the future.
You can, however, limit the training by putting your dog on a lead or at least a house lead during training so that he cannot escape the training situation. Running away is a self-rewarding behaviour, or to put it more simply: your dog's hobby. The house lead is very helpful to be able to intervene in different situations at home without having to touch the dog directly. With the help of a house lead, the human can act more calmly and purposefully and encourage alternative behaviour.
ℹ️ Anything for which your dog does not need a separate reward because the action itself is already so enjoyable is self-rewarding. This includes sniffing, marking, chasing, playing, running or digging.
When training new behaviour, it can always happen that your dog does not show the behaviour you set as a goal from the start. In the beginning, you can overlook minor mistakes and simply ignore them by only giving the dog a reward if it performs the desired behaviour. In most cases, targeted positive reinforcement is sufficient to build up new behaviour.
If your dog has forgotten an exercise because you haven't practised it for a long time, you can simply start as if you had never done the exercise before. After a few runs, the forgotten exercise should be refreshed.
ℹ️ The aim of corrections is for the dog to stop an unwanted behaviour. If your dog continues to show the behaviour again, the correction was not appropriate and did not work.
In the context of correction, we must always be aware that every correction triggers negative emotions in the dog. It is therefore important after every correction not to leave the dog in a negative emotional state, but to subsequently facilitate positive emotions and experiences. Show your dog that you don't want him to eat the horse droppings. As soon as your dog stops Eat, you can teach him an alternative behaviour and praise him for successfully performing it. This teaches your dog that eating horse droppings is stupid, walking into people's feet is rewarding and great.
Any kind of correction triggers an unpleasant feeling in our dog, which is why corrections should be used sparingly and in a very targeted manner. The type of correction always depends on the consequence of the unwanted behaviour. A dog that does not sit directly does not need to be corrected immediately, but should be lured. On the other hand, it makes a difference if the dog does not want to "sit" and then simply runs away. The consequence of the second scenario is that the dog rewards itself by running away. This can be followed, for example, by a verbal correction and then putting the dog on a lead when practising.
As a rule, verbal correction is a perfectly appropriate and sufficient method of correcting the dog. A clear "No!" or "Er, er, er" and clapping your hands or stamping your foot on the floor is sufficient. If the dog jumps onto the table with its front paws to catch food, the dog can be pushed off the table with a clear "No!" and the flat of your hand and sent to its place. The dog learns that it should not get on the table and that the alternative behaviour is to go to its place. Violence or other forms of manhandling are absolutely not proportionate and not necessary! The same applies to ignoring. A dog can be ignored for begging at the table, but ignoring it all day long is completely disproportionate and has no comprehensible reason for the dog and therefore no learning effect.
ℹ️ The link between action and consequence in a dog must be made within 2 seconds in order to have a learning effect. Dogs can only be corrected in flagrante delicto. Correcting too late after the 2-second window will achieve absolutely nothing except a bad relationship with your dog.
Corrections should...
Only take place in the immediate moment of the undesirable behaviour and not afterwards.
Use as little as possible so that it does not lead to dulling.
To take place on the basis of basic obedience in order to be able to fall back on desired behaviour.
Fitting into an overall concept, i.e. interrupting undesirable behaviour and then offering the opportunity for alternative behaviour.
Be proportionate and adapted to the final consequence of the undesirable action.
Do not use physical or psychological violence.
Do not lead to intimidation.
Be calculable and announced.
Stop as soon as the dog stops the unwanted behaviour.
Then allow positive emotions again.
Recognising and documenting successes
And last but not least, it's important to take a close look. Sometimes you can't see the wood for the trees and it's similar when training your dog. Reward even small progress and don't wait for the big end result. Only through continuous positive reinforcement of small steps will your dog understand that he is showing the right behaviour. If you want to lure your dog to you, start by rewarding your dog for paying attention to you by looking at you. Later on and through repetition, you perfect the attention together until the first body movements come in your direction and so on. So-called behaviour chains are very complicated and must therefore be built up step by step. In order to really recognise joint successes, you should write them down again and again. Especially in moments of frustration, writing down the success of your training can be very motivating.
Behaviour chains are strings of behaviours that we later want to bring together in the dog as a sequence to form a behaviour. The aim is to reward the dog for the entire chain of behaviour at the end. Before this is possible, we must first build up and reward each individual behaviour.
Retrieving is a classic example of a behavioural chain: run off - pick up the object in the mouth - immediately run back to the human - put the object down.
In the behaviour chain, each step must be built up individually. You start with the last behaviour in the behaviour chain and work your way back to the first behaviour.
Conclusion
Successful dog training requires patience, consistency and clear communication. Start in a low-stimulus environment and slowly increase the distractions to consolidate what you have learnt. Consistency is the key: only through regular practice and repetition can your dog internalise new behaviours.
Rewards, whether food, play or praise, are the most important motivators. Also use secondary reinforcers such as clickers to support training. Corrections such as negative reinforcement (removing a stimulus) or positive punishment (adding a stimulus) should be used judiciously to interrupt unwanted behaviour.
Set yourself realistic expectations and build a strong, trusting bond with your dog step by step. With patience and positive reinforcement, you will achieve long-term success together.
Regular practice and repetition are essential for your dog to internalise new behaviours. Being consistent means setting the same rules and commands without exceptions.
Training should start in a low-stimulus environment and gradually expand to more distracting situations to ensure that the dog can apply what it has learnt in different contexts.
Set yourself realistic expectations and build a strong, trusting bond with your dog step by step. With patience and positive reinforcement, you will achieve long-term success together.
How often should I train my dog?
It is better to do short, regular training sessions, about 5-10 minutes per session, 2-3 times a day. This will keep your dog motivated and prevent overstraining.
Why does the training work at home but not outside?
Dogs learn according to the situation. If they have learnt a command in a low-stimulus environment (at home), they need to practise it in different environments in order to generalise it. Increase the distraction gradually.
Which rewards should I use in training?
The best rewards are individual and depend on your dog's preferences. Food, play and praise are the most common reinforcers. Experiment to find out what motivates your dog the most.
When should I correct my dog?
Corrections should be short, crisp and targeted to interrupt unwanted behaviour. They must always be given immediately after the behaviour so that the dog understands the connection.
The Vitomalia Basic Obedience Concept is a structured, didactically and methodically thought-out programme that aims to provide you and your dog with the necessary skills and understanding to ensure harmonious and reliable coexistence in everyday life. Each exercise builds on the previous one, creating a strong foundation for future learning success. Here you will find a variety of advanced exercises specifically designed to reinforce and expand on what you and your dog have already learnt in basic obedience. From advanced techniques in signal control to tips on how to master everyday challenges with confidence, we offer a wide range of content to support your training goals."